Sunday Dinner: Pineville Tavern

At Pineville Tavern, my family spends our weeks navigating the beautiful chaos of the restaurant industry, but when Sunday rolls around, the restaurant fades into the background, and our family dinners take priority.

An Abruzzese family favorite is Spaghetti alla Trapanese (spaghetti with “summer pesto”). The recipe is originally from the book “Jamie’s Italy” by celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, but over the years we have put our own delicious twist on it.

The strength of this dish is its versatility—it goes with any protein off the grill or can serve as a side dish to a seafood meal. Even on its own, it stands the true test and is the definition of what I call summer. This is an especially wonderful dish for August because the main ingredients, basil and tomatoes, are flourishing this time of year.

The best part of this family meal is that it’s now being made by my own children. I’m glad to know it’s a living legacy that will grace Abruzzese tables for years to come.

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Spaghetti alla Trapanese

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1 pound dried spaghetti (any type of bronze-cut pasta)

• 6 ounces almonds (leave skins on for added flavor)

• 1 clove garlic

• 4 large handfuls fresh basil (leaves picked)

• 6 ounces freshly grated pecorino or parmesan cheese (or a 50/50 mix)

• Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

• 1½ pounds tomatoes, halved (Roma or cherry/grape)

• Sea salt, to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Lightly toast the almonds in a dry pan, either on the stovetop or in the oven. Crush them in a mortar and pestle or chop them in a food processor until they are the same consistency as the grated cheese and are “sprinkle-able.” Place them into a bowl.

2. Crush the garlic and basil in the mortar and pestle and mix with the cheese, a couple of glugs of olive oil, and some salt and pepper.

3. Add the tomatoes. This is where it gets a little messy. Squeeze the tomato, basil, and oil mixture with your hands, working it until the tomato juice and oil start to emulsify.

4. Cook the spaghetti in salted boiling water according to the package directions minus 90 seconds. Growing up, my father used to tell people to use as much salt as you think you should and then add a little more. When straining, save a cup or two of the pasta water.

5. Pour the scorching-hot pasta over the pesto mixture, tossing it with tongs or a fork. Pour a bit of the pasta water into the bowl and “slap” the pasta into the bowl. Don’t be shy. This releases the gluten, creating an almost buttery emulsification with the olive oil.

6. Taste the seasonings and adjust if needed, then twist the pasta onto a large fork and place on a hot plate. Sprinkle the crunchy toasted almonds over the top and microplane some fresh cheese—don’t be stingy. Add a couple fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil over the top, and you have one of the greatest pasta dishes ever created in less than 10 steps.

Drew Abruzzese is the executive sous chef and kitchen manager at Pineville Tavern.

Photograph by Jennifer Janikic Photography